Frenchy0469

Well since iv had my motor rebuilt and backin the car iv run into various little problems and such. Well i ahd finally thought i had everything taken care of i decided it was time to dyno. I had been feeling that my Z had felt substantially faster before the rebuild but wasnt sure. So here we have it 241 HP and 268 tq. I ran at what my autometer gauge said was 12lbs, I have a stage 3+ just about every minor bolt on. Stock intercoolers, injectors,turbos.Mods in my profile. Any ideas on what could be the issue? i ran a compression test right after wards and had a straight 150's across. The graph doesnt really indicate a boost leak. Ill post pics tom. any input would be appreciated

__________________

Frenchy0469

Twisted Six

If you're pretty close to stock, thats not too far off base. it should be around 280~300 or so. My first guess would be to check for boost and vacuum leaks, especially after a fresh engine install. an EBC would help, upgraded intercoolers, and injectors. Some upgraded downpipes and test pipes would also help. those would make the world of difference right there, easily putting you well into 300~400 whp.

__________________
'If you tolerate this, then your children will be next'
Clicky for info

Frenchy0469

thats the thing chris iv got just about every bolt on on a fresh motor minus the injectors,intercoolers,turbos. Im honestly missing a big chunk of power and compared to other TT dynos my numbers seems to drop off in the pwer band.

my mods:

Koyo Aluminum Radiator
Z1 aluminum lower rad pipe
AMZ 1 piece drive shaft
Wiesco .40 over forged pistons
Eagle H beam forged rods
Toga race bearings
Toga high flow oil pump
PWR 15 row oil cooler (not installed)
JWT Aluminum Flywheel
Samco boost hoses
Joe P MBC
Modified autometer air/fuel gauge
autometer boost gauge
3 angle valve job
AMZ test pipes
AMZ divorced downpipes
HKS Hi-Power cat back
JWT POP Charger
JWT ECU
Auto Specialties UD Pulley
RPS Clutch

at 12 psi i should honestly be at @ 300whp min is what id think

tebriel

what is stock boost on the stock turbos again?
-teb

freakonaleash1187

that is always depressing to see numbers less than what you think they will be. like chris said, check for leaks, its really easy to miss a hose or two when doing any major work on the VG.

__________________

tebriel

did they have the wideband hooked up while you were on the dyno? maybe you were running out of fuel.
-teb

Frenchy0469

Unfortunately no, i dont have a bung in my exhaust yet, im having one put in and going back to check.

Spyder Z 15

Heh-heh. You said bung. Heh-heh.

Good luck getting it all straightened out. Somethings not right cause Malman's tt swap with stock inj and stock ics and he was putting out 350 to the wheels.

__________________


spyderz15 : Doctors think my daughter will be 6'1"
TT2by2 : WTF
TT2by2 : look at it this way tho
TT2by2 : nobody will mess with her
spyderz15 : i better sharpen scissors so I can castrate teenagers
TT2by2 : LMAO
TT2by2 : then how will she make you grandchildred?!?
spyderz15 : immaculate conception
TT2by2 : LOL

Gino

those numbers aren't good at all man. Dont let chris talk, he doesnt know what hes saying. 241 is around what a bone stock TTZ should make to the wheels. At 12lbs you have some serious issues. My stage V++ TT at stock boost (10lbs) made 290+...at stock boost...as for the wideband, you dont necessarily need a bung welded on for them to take wideband readings. They can use a coupler with a metal pipe that has an O2 sensor in it and attatch it to your exhaust. Thats how mine was taken. Your curve definately looks like shit, it peaks then just drops. I would definately check for vacuum leaks, you'd be surprised where they can spring up on our cars.

Just for reference, heres my dyno at stock boost..

__________________

Frenchy0469

i know, iv got some issues and im going to try to get tot he bottom of them before i go back.