91slicktop

Well today at the local road course i fried my rotors, Z is outta comission until i can replace the rotors. I'm flat broke right now, to the point where im asking for Paypal donations =/...rather sad IMO.

[email protected]

I'll also be working on Zmods stickers, hopefully that will help a little to pay for this fix.

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canyoncarver

Where's the pics? Did they warp all to hell or what? If they're stock rotorz, you can get them turned for ~$10 each.

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SLICKTOP OWNERS FTW

91slicktop

Im not sure how bad they are warped. I just know that i was parked yesterday on a slight incline, i disenguaged my ebrake, popped it into neutral and went to roll back like i normally would, and nothing happend. Mark is almost certain its warped rotors. Turning them wouldnt solve the problem, it would just return next time i go to the track. Other people are telling me that "theres no such thing as a warped rotor" and refered me to this page...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/w...brakedisk.shtml

So im still not to sure on what im going to do yet. Any opinions on whats going on?

canyoncarver

The write-up is flawed. Of course the guy selling StopTechs wants you to buy his rotors. There is some importance to making sure that the rotorz are mounted correctly, the hubs are in good condition and the wheels are properly mounted and tightened, but rotors warp. I've chucked warped rotors up in a lathe and checked them with a dial indicator. El-cheapo pepboys, etc, rotors warp way easier than good ones like brembos, stoptechs and the like.

If your rear rotors are warped it might be bacause you set the parking brake after going out on the track and coming back in when the brakes were super hot. The parking brake pressure on hot rotors forces them out of round and when they cool they hold their new shape. ie: don't use the parking brake at the track.

You can do as you wish..... , but if your outta money, getting them turned will get you back on the road for alot less money than buying new rotorz.

btw: I have a perfectly good set of used rear rotorz right now on ebay.

91slicktop

Hmm good point. now that i recall i did set the ebrake while i was at the track after a few runs. and at the track it was somewhere between 90-110 degrees. I just tried another remedy someone suggested to me. Accelerate to 70 and brake down to about 10mph to try to smooth out any debris that got under the pad. and then drive a while with no braking. DId that. Also, i've noticed that when i brake i can hear something contract/realease up front (what i belive to be my calipers) as i push/release my brake pedal. Any ideas on that? would that be caused by a warped rotor and the caliper not being able to seat properly? Also my brake fluid is a light/mid brown color, about time for a change. Any word on how to do that?

canyoncarver

When I bleed my brakes, I usually bleed one reservoirs worth of fluid out thru each caliper. That way I know all of the old fluid is flushed.

You can improve overheated brakes by taking some sand paper to the rotorz and pads to remove the glaze that occurs from the heat. It won't usually eliminate any pulsating but it will improve the grip of the pads. Obviously if you see any buildup on the rotorz, you can sand it all off.

93daytona

Getting them turned will get it back on the road. Just don't go back to the track until you have money for new rotors

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93daytona

Is it a creaking sound? My z does it on hot days, and i've read about it a few times. Iirc, it has something to do with the brake pad shims.

As for removing the brakes, it's simple. Unbolt the calipers, then there are 2 pins that go through the caliper and pad. They're held in by a cotter pin. Pull the cotter pin out, pull the pin out, then the pads fall out.

91slicktop

yes its a creaking sound now that i think of it.

So whats everyones final verdict? Glazed pads or warped rotors? Combination?

canyoncarver

You don't have to unbolt the calipers to remove the pads. Just remove the two long pins and slide the pads out. Clean everything off with scotchbrite and brake parts cleaner before putting the new pads in. Not doing the cleaning is the single biggest cause of squeaky brakes.

Verdict. If the pedal pulsates or the car shakes when braking......... turn the rotorz or replace the rotorz and install new pads. Afterwards, flush and bleed the brake fluid. If you're gonna do some more track dayz, upgrade your brake fluid the the Motul RBF600.

If the brakes feel mushy and lack stopping power, sand the rotorz and pads and then bleed them.


The creaking sounds are inherent in disc brake systems. The pads, over time, don't wear parallel to the calipers. If you look closely at the pads, they tip as they wear, and put the caliper pistons in a bind when braking. This causes the creaking.

91slicktop

Alright, my first thing im going to look at is the condition of the pad. I think they just may be old and done with at this point. I'll take it to a local shop, see what they say, and go from there.

KENZ

so how were goin to get new shoes?

>> http://www.zmods.org/forums/showthread.php?t=251 <<

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91slicktop

Because i was getting them whole sale, so i would have had enough. Now ill be spending $700 rather than $400, that my friend is why

93daytona

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you're that tight on money that you can't afford new rotors/pads, you probably shouldn't be looking to spend money on wheels. Considering that you track the car, you should be stashing money aside for the extra maintenance that will come with the extra abuse.

91slicktop

I wasnt expecting anything to break so soon. it was the first time the Z was ever on the track.

canyoncarver

That's how you learn to play the game of "If you want to play..... you got to pay".

ZMANZ32TT

gangsta

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tebriel

rotors don't warp, it's a misnomer, really they just accumulate different levels of deposits on the surfaces of the rotors.
however, it seems more like your ebrake isn't disengaging, or your calipers are stuck.
-teb